Each year in Zurich, a massive snowman effigy is set ablaze on Sechseläutenplatz, the city’s main square. The duration it takes for the snowman to burn and the speed at which the flames ignite the fireworks within its head, triggering an explosion, supposedly forecasts the quality of the upcoming summer in the Swiss city.
During the recent celebration, it took 26 minutes and 30 seconds for the Zurich Böögg to explode, indicating an “average” summer season. Despite this prediction, the city was bathed in radiant sunshine, and crowds flocked to the various swimming areas known as badis scattered across Zurich.
Zurich is a city characterized by its contrasts. It boasts the quaint Old Town with traditional cafes serving authentic Swiss chocolate and hot beverages. Additionally, there is the lively financial district where professionals seem a bit out of place in the warm weather. Zurich West, a trendy neighborhood popular among creatives, offers another perspective, along with the hidden gem of bathing spots – the badis.
The allure of outdoor swimming was what drew me to Zurich initially. While outdoor swimming may not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Switzerland, in Zurich, locals and tourists alike enjoy plunging into the clear freshwater rivers and lakes.
Upon arrival via Swiss International Air Lines, my first destination was Unterer Letten, the city’s oldest riverside bathing area situated on the Limmat River. This badi provides free entry, lifeguards for safety, and diving boards for those seeking a thrill. There are also stair access points, shower facilities, and sunbathing spots.
In no time, I found myself swept away by the river’s current, experiencing both the exhilarating rush of adrenaline and the comfort of knowing there was a barrier at the pool’s end to prevent drifters. For those seeking a more adventurous swim, Oberer Letten downstream offers a more open-water experience with bars and cafes lining the banks.
Even with the summer crowds, both locations offer ample space to enjoy the pristine blue waters without feeling crowded. Rumor has it that bankers from the financial district opt to swim home instead of using public transport, taking advantage of the river’s current for an effortless journey.
As I strolled along the riverbanks, I discovered a Round Rivers pop-up shop, offering swimwear crafted from recycled plastics retrieved from the river. Nearby, the boutique QWSTION showcased satchels and laptop cases made from compostable banana leaf, reflecting Zurich’s strong eco-friendly ethos, particularly in preserving its cherished waterways.
For those seeking a more tranquil swim, Lake Zurich provides a serene setting with designated pools and vigilant lifeguards to ensure swimmers’ safety from passing boats. I indulged in swimming at Seebad Utoquai and Seebad Enge, both offering mixed bathing facilities along with separate sections for men and women.
A memorable experience was swimming alongside small fish visible in the crystal-clear water. These friendly creatures would approach curiously before darting away, adding a touch of magic to the swim. My accommodation at the quirky 25Hours hotel in Zurich West provided a unique experience with its outdoor lap pool, sauna, and bike rental services in each room.
The hotel’s vibrant decor, individual yoga mats, sports equipment, and minibars added to the charm. Dining at the hotel’s restaurant, Ribelli, was a delight, with the swordfish being a standout dish. Apart from swimming, Zurich captivated me with its diverse culinary scene, charming Old Town, and wealth of museums.
Notably, the Museum für Gestaltung housed an extensive archive showcasing various artifacts, while the Swiss Finance Museum offered insights into the country’s banking history. Exploring Zurich is made convenient with the Zurich Card, granting free and unlimited access to public transportation, popular museums, and discounts on city tours.
Among the culinary highlights is Markthalle, located in a bustling market-turned-farm shop, offering daily menu changes based on seasonal produce. Fish dishes are a common feature on menus, reflecting the city’s proximity to freshwater sources. Whether seeking a relaxing summer retreat or an urban getaway, Zurich caters to diverse tastes and preferences, promising a fulfilling experience. Looking forward to my return to the badis next year, hoping for a quicker snowman burn in 2026.
To reach Zurich, Swiss International Air Lines offers numerous flights from major UK cities to Zurich or Geneva, with affordable one-way fares including checked luggage and hand baggage. Accommodation at the 25hours hotel in Zurich West starts at £180 per night, inclusive of breakfast. For more information, visit SWITZERLAND.COM or ZUERICH.COM/EN.
